Library Catalog - Kentucky Historical Society

Archive Record

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Collection Churchill Weavers Collection
Catalog Number 2007.45.Box 31-336
Object Name Sample, Material
Other number 1936-1, 1936-2
Creator Churchill Weavers
Other Creators Churchill Weavers staff
Date 1936
Scope & Content Box 31-336 contains 31 textile samples: 15 scarves, 14 material samples, and 2 swatches of scarf fabric. Style numbers in this box are 1066 (3 samples), 1086 (10 samples), 1671 (10 samples), 1685 (7 samples), and one sample does not have a style number. Style 1086 is woven in loose plain weave structures of blue and green weft yarns and blue, navy blue, green, and off white warp yarns. The pattern numbers are A1 and 2. The pattern on each consists of a striped accent border that forms squares at corners with white worsted ratine stripes. Style 1671 is woven in net weave structures of varying colors in patterns of alternating stripes with accent threads. The patterns numbers are 2, 4, 6, 7, 12, and 70. Style 1685 is woven in open plain weave structures with plaid patterns in varying colors. The pattern numbers are A1, 4, and 12. Style 1066 is woven in plain weave structures with slub intersecting accent threads forming squares. One scarf, no style number, is woven in variegated flax weft and warp yarns with varying colors running through the threads. All samples are done in wool yarns.
System of arrangement The Sample Collection is organized into various 'series.' The term series may have been applied to this collection when Churchill Weavers hired an archivist in 2002 to process its archive. A copy of the Guide to the Weaving Archive produced by Virginia Daley, project archivist, accompanies the collection. This guide indicates that the bulk of the textile samples are arranged into the following series: Year-Box Series, Cloth Number Series, Early Style Number Series and Master Sample Series. The original arrangement of the boxes was kept during the processing of the weaving samples at the Kentucky Historical Society. The original Churchill Weavers numbers are written on the box labels along with the new box numbers.
The Cloth Number Series was the earliest form of numbering weaving fabrics. Woven fabrics were assigned cloth numbers regardless of the final product (yardage, throws, scarves, etc.) In the early cloth number scheme, different cloth numbers would be assigned to exact fabric that different only in color. Later, single cloth numbers reflect not only a wide range of variant patterns and colors but also variations in the weave caused by different yarns. These Cloth Numbers run from 1 up to 399. The cloth/style number scheme runs from about 400 to 999. These early style numbers reflect a number assigned to a final product and often refer to the cloth number as the type of fabric used.
Around 1933 Churchill Weavers started a coded style number scheme to indicate the type of product, the year created, and the number of products in that line. The coded system is the primary organizing principle behind the Master Sample Series. Churchill Weavers began with four digit style numbers and then later incorporated five digits to clarify the dating on items produced. The first digit in the style number identifies the type of product, 1xxxx refers to scarves, 2xxxx bags, 3xxxx baby blankets, 4xxxx throws, 5xxxx stoles, 6xxxx yardage, 7xxxx cravats, 8xxxx ready-to-wear, and 9xxxx is linens. The date can be determined by the second and third digits. If the number is 35476, the baby blanket was designed in 1954. The last digit identifies the number within that product line, i.e. the baby blanket was 76th in that 1954 line. Experimentals in the collection incorporate a letter as the second digit, for example, 3D59. This can be confusing as experimentals through to 1938, x0xx, have a '0' in the second digit.
The second largest series is the Year-Box Series, which is arranged chronologically by year and there under by box number. The format is like 1932-5. The sequence of boxes within a specific year generally reflects the style numbering sequence, i.e. the scarves (1xxx) will be in the earlier boxes and the cravat yardage (7xxx) will be in the latter boxes of any given year.
In each series, there are boxes labeled as "Outside Purchases" and "Unidentified" objects. Materials of a particular product type, for example, outside purchased scarves, are grouped under the 1xxxxs series of scarves. Outside Purchases refer to items not made by Churchill Weavers, but were acquired because of their similarity or "potential applicability to Churchill lines." Unidentified items are items that Ms. Daley could not find style numbers for during her archival project.

People Bellando, Lila
Bellando, Richard
Churchill, David Carroll
Churchill, Eleanor Franzen
Subjects Churchill Weavers
Clothing & dress
Clothing industry
Neckwear
Neckwear industry
Scarves
Textile art
Textile industry
Textiles
Weaving
Search Terms Appalachian Region
Berea (Ky.)
Madison County (Ky.)
Scarves
Containers Swatch
Scarf
Sample, Material
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Swatch
Sample, Material
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