Library Catalog - Kentucky Historical Society

Archive Record

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Collection Churchill Weavers Collection
Catalog Number 2007.45.Box 31-2186
Object Name Necktie
Other number 75956-76070
Creator Churchill Weavers
Other Creators Churchill Weavers staff
Date 1959-1962
Scope & Content Box 31-2186 contains 52 textiles, including 28 finished neckties, 19 swatch books, 3 material samples, and 2 individual swatches, of neckwear fabric. All textiles are in virgin wool yarns. The style numbers represented are 75956, 75957, 75958, 75959, 75960, 75961, 75962, 75963, 75964, 75965, 76066, 76067, 76068, 76069, and 76070, plus some unnumbered ties. Style 75956 includes 2 swatch books in a plain weave structure with a vertical stripe pattern. Style 75957 includes 1 swatch book and 1 sample in a plain weave with varying widths of vertical stripes. Style 75958 includes 1 swatch book in a plain weave with multi-colored wool warps and flecked nub yarn wefts paired with wool yarns. Style 75959 includes 1 necktie, 1 swatch book, and 2 samples in a plain weave with white cotton wefts and wool warp warps in white and colored stripes. Style 75960 includes 10 neckties (including 1 in original plastic sales box) and 1 swatch book in a plain weave with horizontal stripes at ends. Style 75961 includes 1 necktie in a plain weave with diagonal stripes. Style 75962 includes 1 necktie and 1 swatch book in a plain weave with floating warp stripes forming a 5-dot and single-dot pattern. Style 75963 includes 3 neckties and 1 swatch book with a 4-dot floating warp stripe and horizontal stripe pattern at tie ends. Style 75964 includes 4 swatch books and 2 swatches in a plain weave with black warps/colored wefts or solid colors. Style 75965 includes 1 swatch book in a plain weave with vertical stripes. Style 76066 includes 2 swatch books and 2 neckties in a plain weave with horizontal stripes as tie ends. Style 76067 includes 1 swatch book and 76068 includes 1 swatch book in a plain weave with alternating warp yarn colors; 76067 has cotton wefts and 76068 has horizontal corded stripe detail. Style 76069 includes 6 neckties (3 in one bundle) and 1 swatch book in a plain weave with horizontal 1/3 twill accent stripes across half of each tie. Style 76060 includes 1 swatch book in a plain weave with pairs of horizontal stripes. There are 4 unnumbered ties (2 in heather red and 2 in heather blue) with tags indicating finishing information associated with style 75964.
System of arrangement The Sample Collection is organized into various 'series.' The term series may have been applied to this collection when Churchill Weavers hired an archivist in 2002 to process its archive. A copy of the Guide to the Weaving Archive produced by Virginia Daley, project archivist, accompanies the collection. This guide indicates that the bulk of the textile samples are arranged into the following series: Year-Box Series, Cloth Number Series, Early Style Number Series and Master Sample Series. The original arrangement of the boxes was kept during the processing of the weaving samples at the Kentucky Historical Society. The original Churchill Weavers numbers are written on the box labels along with the new box numbers.

The Cloth Number Series was the earliest form of numbering weaving fabrics. Woven fabrics were assigned cloth numbers regardless of the final product (yardage, throws, scarves, etc.) In the early cloth number scheme, different cloth numbers would be assigned to exact fabric that different only in color. Later, single cloth numbers reflect not only a wide range of variant patterns and colors but also variations in the weave caused by different yarns. These Cloth Numbers run from 1 up to 399. The cloth/style number scheme runs from about 400 to 999. These early style numbers reflect a number assigned to a final product and often refer to the cloth number as the type of fabric used.

Around 1933 Churchill Weavers started a coded style number scheme to indicate the type of product, the year created, and the number of products in that line. The coded system is the primary organizing principle behind the Master Sample Series. Churchill Weavers began with four digit style numbers and then later incorporated five digits to clarify the dating on items produced. The first digit in the style number identifies the type of product, 1xxxx refers to scarves, 2xxxx bags, 3xxxx baby blankets, 4xxxx throws, 5xxxx stoles, 6xxxx yardage, 7xxxx cravats, 8xxxx ready-to-wear, and 9xxxx is linens. The date can be determined by the second and third digits. If the number is 35476, the baby blanket was designed in 1954. The last digit identifies the number within that product line, i.e. the baby blanket was 76th in that 1954 line. Experimentals in the collection incorporate a letter as the second digit, for example, 3D59. This can be confusing as experimentals through to 1938, x0xx, have a '0' in the second digit.

The second largest series is the Year-Box Series, which is arranged chronologically by year and there under by box number. The format is like 1932-5. The sequence of boxes within a specific year generally reflects the style numbering sequence, i.e. the scarves (1xxx) will be in the earlier boxes and the cravat yardage (7xxx) will be in the latter boxes of any given year.
In each series, there are boxes labeled as "Outside Purchases" and "Unidentified" objects. Materials of a particular product type, for example, outside purchased scarves, are grouped under the 1xxxxs series of scarves.

Outside Purchases refer to items not made by Churchill Weavers, but were acquired because of their similarity or "potential applicability to Churchill lines." Unidentified items are items that Ms. Daley could not find style numbers for during her archival project.
People Bellando, Lila
Bellando, Richard
Churchill, David Carroll
Churchill, Eleanor Franzen
Subjects Cravats
Neckties
Neckwear
Neckwear industry
Textile art
Textile industry
Textiles
Weaving
Search Terms Appalachian Region
Berea (Ky.)
Churchill Weavers
Madison County (Ky.)
Textiles
Containers Necktie
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Material
Sample, Sales
Necktie
Sample, Sales
Sample, Material
Necktie
Necktie
Sample, Sales
Necktie
Necktie
Sample, Sales
Necktie
Necktie
Necktie
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Swatch
Swatch
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Necktie
Necktie
Necktie
Necktie
Sample, Sales
Sample, Sales
Necktie
Necktie
Necktie
Necktie