Archive Record

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Collection Churchill Weavers Collection
Catalog Number 2007.45.Box 31-2285
Object Name Sample, Material
Creator Churchill Weavers
Other Creators Churchill Weavers staff
Date 1925-1971
Scope & Content Box 31-2285 contains 17 textiles, including 1 vest, 1 scarf, 2 neckties, 1 placemat, 9 material samples, and 3 sales sample swatch books. The style numbers represented are 16894, 17123, 17011, 17017, 4A01, 4A02, 4A03, 6176 (cloth number 176), 67123, 77066, 77182, 96823, and one unknown style. Style 16894 is swatch book of cape fabric in a balanced double twill weave structure of virgin wool in shades of white, red, yellow, brown, green, blue, and purple. Style 17123 is a vest in a turned monk's belt weave structure of navy blue virgin wool with supplementary warps in red, white, and blue. Style 17011 is a scarf in a tabby and twill weave structure with a large houndstooth pattern of green and blue virgin wool. Style 17017 includes 1 sample and 1 swatch book of stole fabric in a plain weave structure of virgin wool in solid colors of green, red, yellow-orange, purple, blue, sky blue, black, and white. Styles 4A01, 4A02, and 4A03 are material samples of coverlet fabric in an overshot weave structure with white cotton ground fabrics and supplementary wefts in wool; 4A01 wefts are yellow and form an "Olive Leaf" pattern, 4A02 is French blue with "Morning Star," and 4A03 is cream with "Whig Rose." Style 6176 (cloth 176) includes 1 swatch book and 2 samples in a tabby and twill weave with warps that alternate wool yarns with fine white cotton yarns and the wefts are wool; the colors are in shades of white, gray, black, red, yellow, green, and blue. Style 67123 includes 2 samples in a turned overshot weave structure of wool; one has a ground fabric of blended light green and rust brown with stripes in blended yarns of mustard yellow/golden, red/alizarin red, light gray/light yellow, olive green/dark green, and white and the other is blue-green with stripes of pink/deep pink, turquoise/green, light green/sky blue, olive green/dark green, and white. Style 77066 is a necktie in a plain weave of a virgin wool with stripes in golden yellow and dark salmon on a copper brown ground accented with orange and bright blue yarns. Style 77182 is a necktie in a plain weave structure accented with thin 3/1 twill weave stripes, all of virgin wool; there are warp stripes in red, copper, white, and orange with black twill stripe separating each color stripe and the weft color is red. Style 96823 is a placemat in a novelty twill weave structure with a wavy twill border, all of white cotton warp and brown cotton wefts. 1 sample with an unknown style number is in a plain weave structure with a windowpane check of balanced twill stripes, all of wool; there is a check pattern in red and black.
System of arrangement The Sample Collection is organized into various 'series.' The term series may have been applied to this collection when Churchill Weavers hired an archivist in 2002 to process its archive. A copy of the Guide to the Weaving Archive produced by Virginia Daley, project archivist, accompanies the collection. This guide indicates that the bulk of the textile samples are arranged into the following series: Year-Box Series, Cloth Number Series, Early Style Number Series and Master Sample Series. The original arrangement of the boxes was kept during the processing of the weaving samples at the Kentucky Historical Society. The original Churchill Weavers numbers are written on the box labels along with the new box numbers.

The Cloth Number Series was the earliest form of numbering weaving fabrics. Woven fabrics were assigned cloth numbers regardless of the final product (yardage, throws, scarves, etc.) In the early cloth number scheme, different cloth numbers would be assigned to exact fabric that different only in color. Later, single cloth numbers reflect not only a wide range of variant patterns and colors but also variations in the weave caused by different yarns. These Cloth Numbers run from 1 up to 399. The cloth/style number scheme runs from about 400 to 999. These early style numbers reflect a number assigned to a final product and often refer to the cloth number as the type of fabric used.

Around 1933 Churchill Weavers started a coded style number scheme to indicate the type of product, the year created, and the number of products in that line. The coded system is the primary organizing principle behind the Master Sample Series. Churchill Weavers began with four digit style numbers and then later incorporated five digits to clarify the dating on items produced. The first digit in the style number identifies the type of product, 1xxxx refers to scarves, 2xxxx bags, 3xxxx baby blankets, 4xxxx throws, 5xxxx stoles, 6xxxx yardage, 7xxxx cravats, 8xxxx ready-to-wear, and 9xxxx is linens. The date can be determined by the second and third digits. If the number is 35476, the baby blanket was designed in 1954. The last digit identifies the number within that product line, i.e. the baby blanket was 76th in that 1954 line. Experimentals in the collection incorporate a letter as the second digit, for example, 3D59. This can be confusing as experimentals through to 1938, x0xx, have a '0' in the second digit.

The second largest series is the Year-Box Series, which is arranged chronologically by year and there under by box number. The format is like 1932-5. The sequence of boxes within a specific year generally reflects the style numbering sequence, i.e. the scarves (1xxx) will be in the earlier boxes and the cravat yardage (7xxx) will be in the latter boxes of any given year.
In each series, there are boxes labeled as "Outside Purchases" and "Unidentified" objects. Materials of a particular product type, for example, outside purchased scarves, are grouped under the 1xxxxs series of scarves.

Outside Purchases refer to items not made by Churchill Weavers, but were acquired because of their similarity or "potential applicability to Churchill lines." Unidentified items are items that Ms. Daley could not find style numbers for during her archival project.
People Bellando, Lila
Bellando, Richard
Churchill, David Carroll
Churchill, Eleanor Franzen
Subjects Cloth
Clothing & dress
Neckties
Neckwear
Neckwear industry
Scarfs
Table decorations
Table settings & decorations
Textile art
Textile industry
Textiles
Vests
Weaving
Search Terms Appalachian Region
Berea (Ky.)
Churchill Weavers
Madison County (Ky.)
Textiles
Containers Sample, Sales
Vest
Scarf
Sample, Material
Sample, Sales
Sample, Material
Sample, Material
Sample, Material
Sample, Sales
Sample, Material
Sample, Material
Sample, Material
Sample, Material
Necktie
Necktie
Placemat
Sample, Material