Library Catalog - Kentucky Historical Society

Archive Record

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Collection Churchill Weavers Collection
Catalog Number 2007.45.Box 31-1052
Object Name Poncho
Other number 18577-18579
Creator Churchill Weavers
Other Creators Churchill Weavers staff
Date 1985
Scope & Content Box 31-1052 contains 1 poncho (or ruana), 1 shawl, 1 yarn card, 1 sales sample of stole fabric swatches, and 1 stole. The textile samples in this box represent styles 18577, 18578, and 18579. The weaves structures, colors, and materials vary. The poncho is in style 18577 and woven in a net weave structure of wool, acrylic, and polyester yarns of light pink, light purple, white, and sky blue colors. The pattern is comprised of large checkered squares and the pattern number is 30. The shawl and yarn card are representatives of style 18578. The shawl is woven in a loose plain weave of dark burgundy wool in pattern 35. The accompanying yarn card shows four pattern colors of this style. The sales sample and stole are examples of style 1875. These textiles are woven in twill weave structures of wool and feature plaid patterns. The patterns presented are 27 and 80.
System of arrangement The Sample Collection is organized into various 'series.' The term series may have been applied to this collection when Churchill Weavers hired an archivist in 2002 to process its archive. A copy of the Guide to the Weaving Archive produced by Virginia Daley, project archivist, accompanies the collection. This guide indicates that the bulk of the textile samples are arranged into the following series: Year-Box Series, Cloth Number Series, Early Style Number Series and Master Sample Series. The original arrangement of the boxes was kept during the processing of the weaving samples at the Kentucky Historical Society. The original Churchill Weavers numbers are written on the box labels along with the new box numbers.

The Cloth Number Series was the earliest form of numbering weaving fabrics. Woven fabrics were assigned cloth numbers regardless of the final product (yardage, throws, scarves, etc.) In the early cloth number scheme, different cloth numbers would be assigned to exact fabric that different only in color. Later, single cloth numbers reflect not only a wide range of variant patterns and colors but also variations in the weave caused by different yarns. These Cloth Numbers run from 1 up to 399. The cloth/style number scheme runs from about 400 to 999. These early style numbers reflect a number assigned to a final product and often refer to the cloth number as the type of fabric used.

Around 1933 Churchill Weavers started a coded style number scheme to indicate the type of product, the year created, and the number of products in that line. The coded system is the primary organizing principle behind the Master Sample Series. Churchill Weavers began with four digit style numbers and then later incorporated five digits to clarify the dating on items produced. The first digit in the style number identifies the type of product, 1xxxx refers to scarves, 2xxxx bags, 3xxxx baby blankets, 4xxxx throws, 5xxxx stoles, 6xxxx yardage, 7xxxx cravats, 8xxxx ready-to-wear, and 9xxxx is linens. The date can be determined by the second and third digits. If the number is 35476, the baby blanket was designed in 1954. The last digit identifies the number within that product line, i.e. the baby blanket was 76th in that 1954 line. Experimentals in the collection incorporate a letter as the second digit, for example, 3D59. This can be confusing as experimentals through to 1938, x0xx, have a '0' in the second digit.

The second largest series is the Year-Box Series, which is arranged chronologically by year and there under by box number. The format is like 1932-5. The sequence of boxes within a specific year generally reflects the style numbering sequence, i.e. the scarves (1xxx) will be in the earlier boxes and the cravat yardage (7xxx) will be in the latter boxes of any given year.
In each series, there are boxes labeled as "Outside Purchases" and "Unidentified" objects. Materials of a particular product type, for example, outside purchased scarves, are grouped under the 1xxxxs series of scarves.

Outside Purchases refer to items not made by Churchill Weavers, but were acquired because of their similarity or "potential applicability to Churchill lines." Unidentified items are items that Ms. Daley could not find style numbers for during her archival project.
People Bellando, Lila
Bellando, Richard
Churchill, David Carroll
Churchill, Eleanor Franzen
Subjects Clothing & dress
Clothing industry
Fashion
Textile art
Textile industry
Textiles
Weaving
Search Terms Appalachian Region
Berea (Ky.)
Churchill Weavers
Madison County (Ky.)
Poncho
Women's clothing
Containers Shawl
Card, Sample
Sample, Sales
Stole
Poncho