Library Catalog - Kentucky Historical Society

Archive Record

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Collection Churchill Weavers Collection
Catalog Number 2007.45.Box 31-1975
Object Name Sample, Material
Other number 6025-6061
Creator Churchill Weavers staff
Other Creators Churchill Weavers staff
Date 1935-1936
Scope & Content Box 31-1975 contains 37 material samples of yardage, including dress, cravat, and curtain fabric. The style numbers represented by the textiles in this box are 6025, 6028, 6029, 6032, 6034, 6035, 6036, 6040, 6047, 6050, 6052, and 6061. Style 6025 is woven in a plain weave structure of dark brown and yellow warp and weft yarns. The pattern is A5. Style 6028 sample is woven in a plain weave structure of wool and rayon. The pattern is made-up of dark brown, white, and light orange checkered squares of intersecting, equal width stripes. Style 6029 includes four samples woven in plain weave structures of wool. The pattern on each is comprised of alternating vertical stripes. Pattern numbers are A-2, A-3, A-5, and A-6. Style 6032 consists of seven material samples woven in plain weave structures of multi-colored stripes of equal width. Pattern numbers are A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, and A7. One style of 6032 is also identified as style 6660. Style 6034 is woven in a plain weave structure of wool. The pattern is made-up of black and red checks with accents threads of yellow and white woven vertically and horizontally in the weave. Style 6035 consists of three samples woven in plain weave structures of wool in checkered patterns. The pattern numbers represented are A1, A2, and A4. Style 6036 includes three material samples. The samples are woven in plain weave structures and feature patterns of window pane blocks and intersecting pinstripes of contrasting colors. The pattern numbers are A1, A2, and A4.

Style 6040 is a material sample of dress fabric is woven in a loose plain weave structure of stretchy novelty yarns that appear to be made of wool and rayon. The ground color is light blue and the pattern is comprised of dark blue nub accent yarn woven vertically and horizontally in the weave. Pattern is A2. Style 6047 consists of two samples woven in plain weave structures of wool. The pattern on each is comprised of blocks bordered with fading pinstripes. Patterns are A3 and A4. Style 6050 is woven in a plain weave structure of wool and rayon. The warp and weft colors are black, heather gray, and dark burgundy in a checkered square pattern with pinstripe borders. Pattern is A2. A second style of 6050 includes five material samples woven in net weave structure of white cotton yarns and linen weft yarns. Style 6052 is woven in a plain weave structure of wool and rayon in dark blue and navy yarns. Style 6061 sample includes six material samples and sales sample of swatches woven in plain weave structures of wool and rayon. Samples feature patterns of multi-colored stripes of varying widths. Pattern numbers are 2, 4, 5, 6, 80, and 95.
System of arrangement The Sample Collection is organized into various 'series.' The term series may have been applied to this collection when Churchill Weavers hired an archivist in 2002 to process its archive. A copy of the Guide to the Weaving Archive produced by Virginia Daley, project archivist, accompanies the collection. This guide indicates that the bulk of the textile samples are arranged into the following series: Year-Box Series, Cloth Number Series, Early Style Number Series and Master Sample Series. The original arrangement of the boxes was kept during the processing of the weaving samples at the Kentucky Historical Society. The original Churchill Weavers numbers are written on the box labels along with the new box numbers.

The Cloth Number Series was the earliest form of numbering weaving fabrics. Woven fabrics were assigned cloth numbers regardless of the final product (yardage, throws, scarves, etc.) In the early cloth number scheme, different cloth numbers would be assigned to exact fabric that different only in color. Later, single cloth numbers reflect not only a wide range of variant patterns and colors but also variations in the weave caused by different yarns. These Cloth Numbers run from 1 up to 399. The cloth/style number scheme runs from about 400 to 999. These early style numbers reflect a number assigned to a final product and often refer to the cloth number as the type of fabric used.

Around 1933 Churchill Weavers started a coded style number scheme to indicate the type of product, the year created, and the number of products in that line. The coded system is the primary organizing principle behind the Master Sample Series. Churchill Weavers began with four digit style numbers and then later incorporated five digits to clarify the dating on items produced. The first digit in the style number identifies the type of product, 1xxxx refers to scarves, 2xxxx bags, 3xxxx baby blankets, 4xxxx throws, 5xxxx stoles, 6xxxx yardage, 7xxxx cravats, 8xxxx ready-to-wear, and 9xxxx is linens. The date can be determined by the second and third digits. If the number is 35476, the baby blanket was designed in 1954. The last digit identifies the number within that product line, i.e. the baby blanket was 76th in that 1954 line. Experimentals in the collection incorporate a letter as the second digit, for example, 3D59. This can be confusing as experimentals through to 1938, x0xx, have a '0' in the second digit.

The second largest series is the Year-Box Series, which is arranged chronologically by year and there under by box number. The format is like 1932-5. The sequence of boxes within a specific year generally reflects the style numbering sequence, i.e. the scarves (1xxx) will be in the earlier boxes and the cravat yardage (7xxx) will be in the latter boxes of any given year.
In each series, there are boxes labeled as "Outside Purchases" and "Unidentified" objects. Materials of a particular product type, for example, outside purchased scarves, are grouped under the 1xxxxs series of scarves.

Outside Purchases refer to items not made by Churchill Weavers, but were acquired because of their similarity or "potential applicability to Churchill lines." Unidentified items are items that Ms. Daley could not find style numbers for during her archival project.
People Bellando, Lila
Bellando, Richard
Churchill, David Carroll
Churchill, Eleanor Franzen
Subjects Cravats
Samples
Textile art
Textile industry
Textiles
Weaving
Search Terms Appalachian Region
Berea (Ky.)
Churchill Weavers
Madison County (Ky.)
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